You want to discover mountaineering in Nepal, but you're a beginner and don't know where to start? To help you get clarity, we gave the floor to one of our expert mountain guides: Riten Jangbu Sherpa, aka Tashi. IFMGA/UIAGM certified with 16 years of experience in mountaineering, he has already completed numerous ascents of peaks over 8,000 meters.

In this interview, he shares his experience and gives us his best tips for succeeding on your first high-altitude expedition in Népal, from peak selection to physical and mental preparation.

Which "easy route" or peak should you choose for a first mountaineering experience in Népal?

"If you're starting out in Himalayan mountaineering, I recommend looking into:

• Yala Peak,

• Pisang Peak,

• Yalung Ri (Rolwaling),

• Pangen Dokpa,

• Baden Power/Scout Peak (Langtang),

• Lobuche East Peak.

These are all excellent introductory peaks, each offering something a bit different.

Yala Peak (5,732 m), in the Langtang region, is probably the most suitable for beginners. It's relatively straightforward and doesn't require advanced technical skills, while still offering a genuine high-altitude experience. Plus, the views of Shishapangma and the surrounding Himalayan range are absolutely spectacular.

Lobuche East Peak (6,119 m), in the Everest region, is ideal if you've already done some trekking and want to take on a slightly more technical challenge. It's steeper and more technical, but also incredibly rewarding.

All these peaks are accessible with proper acclimatization and support from experienced local high-altitude guides.

💡 Expert tip:
If you work with certified professionals, such as UIAGM guides, you'll be in good hands. 

How do you choose your first mountaineering peak? What are the key criteria to consider?

"Choosing your first peak is an important decision, and it's essential to find the right balance between challenge and safety. I generally suggest starting with a peak below 6,500 meters: this altitude gives your body a good chance to acclimatize without pushing it too hard.

You also need to consider technical difficulty. For a first ascent, go for a 'trekking peak' that requires only basic mountaineering skills such as ice axe use, crampons, and understanding simple rope techniques.

Duration also matters. Ideally, choose an expedition that fits within a 2 to 3-week window. This gives you enough time for proper planning, acclimatization, and a gradual ascent.

Then there's access and logistics. Make sure the region has decent infrastructure, reliable communications, and emergency evacuation options, just in case.

Finally, timing is crucial. In Népal, the best seasons for mountaineering are spring (March-May) and autumn (October-November), when weather is more stable and predictable. That alone can make an enormous difference in your experience."

What type of simple training do you recommend to prepare for a first mountaineering experience?

"If you're planning your first mountaineering adventure, I'd say you should start preparing at least 10 to 12 weeks beforehand.

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You don't need to be an elite athlete, but you do need to build a solid foundation of physical fitness.

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Focus on cardio training: activities like hiking, trail running with a backpack, or cycling. This helps develop the endurance you'll need for long days on the trails.

Next comes strength training, particularly for the legs and core. Exercises like lunges, squats, and planks are simple but really effective. You'll be carrying weight and moving over uneven terrain, so strong legs and a stable core are essential.

Flexibility and mobility are often overlooked, but they're just as important. Regular stretching helps prevent injuries and keeps your body moving well, especially in cold conditions.

And if you have access to it, altitude-simulation training (like using altitude tents or altitude masks) can be an excellent way to help your body start adapting to lower oxygen levels before you even arrive in the mountains."

What are the most common mistakes beginners make in physical preparation?

"One of the biggest mistakes I see is that people underestimate the endurance really required. High-altitude trekking is no joke: it's long days, steep climbs, and thinner air. You need to be physically ready for this type of sustained effort.

Another common problem is training only in the gym. While gym training is useful, it doesn't fully prepare you for uneven terrain, changing weather conditions, and the mental challenge of being in the mountains. You need to get outside: hike, climb, train on trails.

Also, many beginners skip recovery days, thinking that 'more training' is always better.

Yet rest is just as important as exercise sessions. Your body needs time to rebuild and adapt.

Finally, many people don't train with a backpack. Carrying 10 to 12 kilos on your back changes everything: your balance, your endurance, even your posture. So you need to train with the gear you'll actually use."

Is the mental aspect as important as physical fitness? How do you prepare your mindset?

"Absolutely! It's just as important, if not more so. Physical strength gets you up the mountain, but mental resilience keeps you going when things get difficult.

At altitude, where conditions can be unpredictable and progress is slow, your mindset can make or break the experience.

One of the best ways to prepare mentally is to stay informed. When you know what to expect—whether it's pace, altitude, or challenges—it removes a lot of fear and anxiety.

I also recommend practicing mindfulness. Staying in the present moment helps manage stress and stay focused, especially when you're tired or facing unexpected situations.

And don't underestimate the power of visualization. Mentally walking through the journey—imagining the ascent, the effort, the summit—can build confidence and keep you grounded once you're there."

How do you stay focused during the ascent? How do you maintain motivation when facing effort or unexpected challenges?

"Staying focused during an ascent is really about managing your energy, both physical and mental. First, proper acclimatization is essential. When your body adapts well to altitude, your mind stays clearer and more focused.

I also find that team support makes an enormous difference. Whether it's encouragement from your guide or simply sharing the experience with other climbers, that sense of camaraderie helps you get through tough moments.

Then there are the basics: staying hydrated, breathing steadily, and taking one step at a time. It sounds simple, but these small habits keep you grounded and present.

And when things get really difficult, I always come back to my personal motivation. Reminding yourself why you're doing this—whether it's for the challenge, the adventure, or something deeper—can rekindle your energy when you need it most."

How would you simply explain altitude sickness to someone who doesn't know about it?

"I'd say altitude sickness is what happens when your body doesn't get enough oxygen at high altitude. The higher you go, the rarer the air becomes and your body needs time to adapt. If it can't, you may start feeling symptoms like:

• headaches,

• nausea,

• dizziness, and

• fatigue.

It's your body's way of saying: 'Hey, slow down, I need more time to adapt.' It's common, but with the right precautions, it's manageable."

What preventive measures do you recommend to beginners to avoid altitude sickness?

"At high altitude, prevention is essential. First thing: stay hydrated by consuming 2.5 to 4 liters of water daily. This helps your body adapt and maintains your energy.

Diet is also key: eat regularly and enough, especially during long days of walking.

Sleep matters too: your body recovers and acclimatizes during rest.

Pace: go slowly, especially above 3,500 meters. A good rule: 300 to 500 meters of elevation gain per day with rest days.

Finally, acclimatization: take your time and listen to your body. Rushing is one of the biggest mistakes."

Which altitude sickness signs should make you descend immediately?

"There are several warning signals you should never ignore at altitude. If someone has a persistent headache and nausea that doesn't disappear with medication, it's a sign their body isn't adapting well.

Confusion or unsteady gait, what we call a 'drunk walk,' is another serious symptom. It means the brain isn't getting enough oxygen, which is dangerous.

If someone is struggling to breathe even at rest, or experiencing chest tightness or extreme fatigue, it's time to act. These are signs of more severe altitude-related illnesses, and the safest decision is to descend immediately."

No summit is worth risking your health. 

Can you share a case where a traveler had to manage acute altitude sickness?

"Yes, altitude sickness is something we encounter regularly. During most expeditions, about 3 out of 20 clients show signs of acute altitude sickness (AAS), and about 1 out of 20 may require evacuation, particularly in regions like Everest or Annapurna, usually between 4,000 and 5,000 meters.

In one case, a client started experiencing persistent headaches and nausea that didn't improve with medication. As symptoms worsened, he began showing signs of confusion and extreme fatigue. We immediately activated our emergency protocol, coordinated with our operations team, and arranged a helicopter evacuation.

The client was transported to Kathmandu and hospitalized for 2 to 3 days. Fortunately, thanks to proper medical care and rest, he made a complete recovery."

These situations remind us why it's absolutely essential to have a trained team and a solid evacuation plan in high-altitude environments. 

🏔️ Ready for your next high-altitude adventure?

Prepare yourself for the call of the Himalayas: from the trails of Népal to the vistas of the Annapurnas, discover how to properly anticipate altitude effects and fully enjoy your trek.

🌿 Read the article: How to prevent altitude sickness

Which equipment do beginners often overestimate and which is underestimated?

"Beginners often overestimate the need for heavy technical gear. They arrive with ice axes, ropes, and equipment better suited for advanced ascents. In reality, for most introductory peaks, only the basics are necessary, and carrying too much gear can actually slow you down.

Oversized backpacks are another common mistake. People tend to prepare for every possible scenario, but that just adds unnecessary weight. The goal should be to pack smartly, not overload.

Conversely, some of the most important things are underestimated. For example, many don't take time to truly understand altitude sickness, how it manifests, how to prevent it, and what to do if symptoms appear.

💡 Expert tip:
Having the right shoes and a proper clothing system can make all the difference for your comfort and safety in the mountains.

And there's also hydration, nutrition, and travel insurance. It may not sound exciting, but it's absolutely essential. Staying well-fed, protected, and insured gives you peace of mind and lets you stay focused on the climb."

Should beginners always hire a guide? What can they bring to a high-altitude ascent compared to self-preparation?

"Yes, especially in Népal, where having a guide is actually mandatory in many protected areas like Annapurna, Manaslu, Langtang, Everest, Kanchenjunga, and Makalu.

But beyond the requirement, going with a local guide adds a dimension of safety and depth to your experience. They're trained to handle emergency situations, help you maintain the right pace, and ensure you're acclimatizing properly.

They also bring extensive local knowledge, not just about the route but also about culture, people, and the environment. And when it comes to logistics, they're invaluable. For a beginner, having this type of support can make the difference between a stressful climb and a truly memorable adventure."

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From organizing transport and permits to knowing where to find help if problems arise, a good guide makes the journey smoother and safer.

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How do you choose a good guide or reliable local agency for a mountaineering expedition? What criteria should you check?

"Choosing the right guide or agency is one of the most important decisions you'll make. Start by checking certifications: guides with IFMGA/UIAGM/NNMGA credentials meet international standards and are trained in both safety and technical expertise.

Reviews are also an excellent indicator. Look for consistent feedback on aspects like safety, communication, and professionalism. If past clients felt well looked-after, that's a good sign.

Local experience matters too. A guide who lives and works in the region knows the terrain, weather patterns, and culture; this knowledge adds a lot to your experience.

You should also consider group size. Smaller groups typically allow for more personalized attention and better safety management.

🏔️ A good agency will also help you prepare your gear, ensuring you're properly equipped without overloading your pack.
Don't forget to check insurance and permits: they should be fully registered and compliant with local regulations.

📩 Request a quote or contact the agency

Finally, pay attention to communication. If the guide or agency is responsive, clear, and transparent from the start, it's a reliable indicator of how they'll handle situations on the mountain."

The words of Riten Jangbu Sherpa ring out like a call to adventure: the Himalayas are waiting for you!

As you now understand, the Himalayas may seem intimidating, but with the expertise of a certified guide like Riten Jangbu Sherpa and the support of an experienced local team, every peak becomes achievable. With Bluesheep Journey, partner of Nomadays, let yourself be guided step by step and transform your mountaineering dream in Népal into reality.

Contact our Bluesheep Journey agency today to plan your expedition or for more information..